Western Australia Road Trip: 19 Aug 2012 to 31 Aug 2012

西澳大利亞之旅 (2012年8月19日 – 2012年8月31日)

Perth – Exmouth – Perth. It's a really long road trip but lovely journey!

This was our second trip to Australia after our last visit at Tasmania on Dec 2011. We triggered this trip due to the air flight promotion by Cathy in June (but it was really not cheap after counting airport tax, accommodation booking, car rental etc.). I took researched meticulously before the trip. Finally I decided this long road trip because it is classified as “Ultimate wildlife road trip”.

This trip was utterly exhausting. We took 3,900 kilometers in 11 full days. I made reference of the written report by Bill and Mel on the web. Their experience was extremely useful to plan my own. Other reference was Lonely Planet and Western Australia brochure.

Was it interesting? Absolutely. Was it worth? Of course as we had spotted many wildlife and visited many scenic views even though they are far apart from each others. Would I do it again? I think not because it was really exhausting with one driver.

The travelers include ABCD Family.

Day 0: 19 Aug 2012

We took the Cathy Pacific airplane, CX 171 19AUG HKG // Perth 1505 2235. After taking off for a while, we unfortunately found that no electricity and no TV on our rows of seats due to technical problem. It was real difficulty for the children for 7.5 hours without entertainment. I kept taking photos outside the window. Children can only pay with the iPad. When we left, we were compensated with @USD50, i.e. totally USD200 Cathy Pacific gift coupon. It was pretty good. When we took the returned flight back to HK, I used the coupons to buy the USD223 Police watch and wallet.

We arrived Perth international airport at around 22:45. We passed all of the immigration department at around 23:30. Unfortunately again, there was no people in the Hertz counter where we have pre-booked our car in Internet. We waited and finally got the car at around 12:30pm. It was a Hyndai i30 car, colored in white. It was almost new and was reported to be have 800km record only. We forgot to check but found it was actually recorded at 1,700km the next morning. We drove to our destination place, Perth Vineyards Holiday Park, 91 Benara Road, Caversham, WA 6055, around 7.35km from Perth Airport. The road was too dark and it was hard to spot any sign on the road. We seemed to take an hour to reach the site which should be reachable in 15-30mins originally.

Overnight: Perth Vineyards Holiday Park

Next up: Exploring Pink Lake and the taking the longest drive of this trip

Day 1: 20 Aug 2012 (approximately 577km, almost 8 hours drive)

We woke up early at 7:30am and enjoyed the instant noodle as breakfast (brought from HK). We did not have time to explore the Swan Valley but left at around 9:00am for a long road trip today. The GPS led us to pick up the Brand Highway. It consisted of rolling hills, pastures, livestock and railroad crossings. Originally I planned to visit Nambung National Park and the infamous Pinnacle Desert before 11:00am. I found that it may take us much time after almost a 3 hours drive. So I abandoned because we still had long road to finish today. Also, we should have another chance when headed back to Perth 10 days later.

We filled up our food stock in supermarket at Jurien Bay, bought a cooked chicken to finish our lunch on the car. We continued on and passed few little and large towns such as Dongara, Geraldton. We arrived Northampton at 4:00pm and turned left here and worked our way towards Kalbarri via the scenic route. We had a detour to Port Gregory where we really wanted to see the Pink Lake. Like many of its kind in Western Australia, its pink hue is created by bacteria which becomes trapped in the salt granules. The lake is best viewed at sundown and we should be at right moment because we arrived there at around 5:00pm (sunset at 6:00pm).

After taking many pictures, we needed to go back our planned road to Kalbarri because I really did not want to drive at dark in the wild place. We still had 66km to reach the destination, Kalbarri Tudor Holiday Park. After another hour drive, we almost finished a prolonged 8 hours drive. We stopped at Red Bluff to see the 1^st sunset on this trip. It was lovely although we were all tired.

Finally we found the holiday park and soon to prepare our homemade dinner by my lovely wife.

Overnight: Kalbarri Tudor Holiday Park

Next up: Kalbarri Nature Window

Day 2: 21 Aug 2012 (approximately 380km, around 6 hours drive)

I had a good sleep here even if I heard a heavy rain outside last night. It helped us to wash the car that filled with plenty of dead insects on the front cover and window. Like yesterday, we got up at 7:15am, took a breakfast and headed up to our next destination with a rush.

We checked out at 8:30am and went to the town to watch the daily Pelican feeding. We kept on having bad luck till now because no Pelican came to the foreshore to enjoy their daily feed here. Everyone was disappointed and left including us. We bought few oranges at AUD$1 in a van. It’s owner would drove to Ex-mouth too. We left town via Ajana Kalbarri Road, set off, and were soon make our way along the rough, washboard like road to Kalbarri National Park, which was a 26km gravel corrugated road. The road into the national park is unsealed and often closed after wet weather. My first luck came because yesterday rain was not that heavy to make it closed.

There were quite a lot of visitors, but should be much fewer than that in HK. We also seen some Chinese and heard some of them spoken in cantonese except us. Everyone squeezed the chance to take photos in front of Nature’s Window. We also took a lot. The wind kept blowing fiercely and my Gitzo tripod had been blown away few times.

Next we worked our way towards the Z Bend River. We took many photos here again. We continued our scenic drive at Ajana Kalbarri Road. Although time was always not enough, we kept on our detour to Hawk’s head and hoped for another scenic view here. A nice overlook with gorgeous views of the Murchison River was spotted again. I also hoped I could really spotted some hawks and eagles here, but they were just soaring overhead and far away to keep me from reachable with my 400mm telephoto lens.

Back on the road, we rejoined the North-west Coastal Highway. We made a stop at the Billabong Roadhouse to gas up and picnic…outside the car…again (even if having quite a lot of flies that disturbing us). Then we continued our journey, spotted some wild goats and luckily we had prevented them from joining kangaroo carcasses that littered the roadsides. Soon we made the turn towards Shark Bay, the road up here was filled with many beautiful little yellow flowers. It was already late afternoon at around 3:00pm. The sun was still severely shined. Australia is indeed a sunburned country that we had to keep on wearing sunglass and refilled our skins with sun oils. 

When we made the 5km detour to Hamelin Pool, it was already 4pm. My children kept on asking us the road and time was so long and what was next’s up. We were here because we tried to figure out exactly what a stromatolite is. The Hamelin Pool boardwalk and viewing platform is nicely done, the tide was high and the stromatolites were covered by sea water. we could not see the full picture stromatolites and I felt it was midely interesting but still worth to make a visit here.

Next we took the turn to Shell Beach, some 50km south of Denham. It was fantastic beach because it was made entirely of cockle shells. My children became energetic here. The shell beach extends endlessly. Our second lucky came here, the rainbow appeared after a small rain. We seized the chance to take picture with the fascinating little shells, rainbow, sunset against the brilliant turquoise water.

We did not want to leave but the sun was already set below the water line. A short time later we rolled into the Oceanside Village, Denham. We got settled here for next three nights after a 2 day long drive. The cabin here is much better than before. We also got free wifi access here that we could communicate to my HK friends and published some photos taken the days before. It was wonderful. My wife was busy again to prepare the homemade dinner for the family.

Overnight: Oceanside Village, Denham

Next up: Monkey Mia and Denham

Day 3: 22 Aug 2012

We were up at 6:30am and on our way to Monkey Mia (26km from Denham) by 7:30am to watch the dolphin feeding. We purchased the 4 week family pass at AUD$30, just in case the dolphins did not show up (like the Pelican feeding) and we could choose to return the next day.

There was quite a crowd by 8:30. The dolphin finally came, appeared in our side and came closed to us, lovely. The sea water was cold and we seemed to be the ones in the crowd who worn the feather jackets. We saw up to 7 wild dolphins came to be fed and a wild turtle (not to be fed). Having enjoyed the show, back to the car for an alfresco breakfast, with tuna bread and corn soap.

We took the Wylyibidi Yaninyina Trail (or Monkey Mia Walk Trail) at around 11:00, led us to the red soiled lands and then turquoise water again. We saw the Australian Blue Tonque Lizard to enjoy its sunny bath (it was recognized by my son, he had prepared very well by reading the Australian wildlife book before the trip. Excellent, my beloved boy). Unluckily it was gone back to the bush after having changed with my long telephone lens. Again! No picture could be taken, too bad! Shortly we spotted our first Emu here. We kept with it in close but safety distance. Our son took some good portrait photos with her.

We spent quite a bit of long time in the turquoise beach, wish I could spent a lot more. Children played with sand while I enjoyed the avian photography as there were many shore birds in close distance, such as Pelicans, little Common Terns, Caspian Terns. 

Our next stop was little Lagoon, a goregous circular pool of turquoise water completely enclosed by land. We had a picnic here, the children enjoyed the sand beach too. The water was cold but I saw a guy swimming, it could be seen as crazy guy in HK by swimming in a large pool without any safe guard.

We drove back to Eagle Bluff where we spotted our one any only one wild Dugongs in this trip (and also White Bellied Sea Eagle flight towards me. Again, not enough time to change my super-tele for this raptor, too sad!). The wind was much fierecely here and seemed to be able to blow away a guy. We used to visit the Ocean Park but it was already 4pm, the park was closed. We turned back and made detour into Francois Peron Natinoal Park. The roads into the park are suitable for 4x4 vehicles only, instead we could only bump our way to Peron Homestead, a histroic sheep shearing station, to take our short self-guided tour only. I just wondered why such an isolated place would have a group of children playing American football here.

Again, we kept on enjoying the homemade dinner tonight by my beloved second half.

Overnight: Oceanside Village, Denham

Next up: Denham and Ocean Park

Overnight: Oceanside Village, Denham

Next up: Denham and Ocean Park

Day 4: 23 Aug 2012

We woke up late today. We poked through the town, visited the vistor centre, located the church that was made of cockle shells. My daugther had left some wordings on the guest book, she had this practice since last trip in Tasmania, lovely girl. We did not want to waste the 4 week pass, so drove to the Monkey Mia again. In the visitor center of Monkey Mia, we bought a 4 week national park pass at AUD40 (actually AUD 29 as we got refund of the AUD11 spent on Kalbarri National Park entry point).

In the pier on Monkey Mia, I talked with a young guy who are looking for a similar camera gear as mine for the rest of his traveling in Australia, including Ayers Rock where I would like to visit sometime in future. We spotted the Manta Rays in the pier without getting wet with my feet. Many Dolphins were seen again, but it was too late in the middle of the day that all of the Dolphin feed show were over.

After lunch in the Moneky Mia beach, we made our way to Ocean Park, where we paid AUD$65 for a family tour. We were introduced with many sorts of marine life, including stone fish, sharks, turtle etc. My children enjoyed this tour very much.

We drove back to Denham town, looking for some souvenior at a small gift shop, talked with an friendly old lady, but it was such a small town that not much gift to be shopped around. We then got back to the cottage and enjoyed a very beautiful sunset at the ocean side, then made a homemade dinner again.

Overnight: Oceanside Village, Denham

Next up: Carnarvon, OTC dish and One Mile Jetty

Day 5: 24 Aug 2012, Denham to Carnarvon (approximately 334km, 3.3 hours drive)

We followed the same practice and bid adieu to Denham at around 9:00am and headed up to Carnarvon. We passed the Wooramel Roadhouse and soon (after 3 hours drive) arrived our next resting place, Carnarvon Coral Coast Tourist Park.

We took our lunch in the cabin, it might be our first time for not an alfresco lunch nor lunch in car. Then we drove to visit the OTC Satellite Earth Station, it was established to meet the need for more reliable and higher quality communications for NASA’s Apolio Moon project in 1960s. The dish was real big but a pair of Australian Kestrels attracted me more. I wished I had a second 5D3 camera body because I could not have enough time to change my lens. Yes, again, too bad.

Next stop was the historic One Mile Jetty, one of the longest in the southern hemisphere. We visited museum free of charge, but paid AUD$4 each (adult only) to enter the jetty. Bryce would like to take the train but it was 4pm and closed. The jetty was really long and Ava asked why we came here. She felt exhausted, tired, cranky and in need of food when reached to the end point of the jetty (1.6km).

Next we went to the relatively large supermarket (so far in WA we visited), Woolworths, for filling up our groceries in coming next 3 days in exmouth. We saw many more Chinese here, speaking in Cantonese, Mandarin and English. I believed that there are many Chinese settled here because the place was filled with plantations.

Overnight: Carnarvon Coral Coast Tourist Park

Next up: Exmouth, termite mounds and lighthouse

Day 6: 25 August, 2012, Carnarvon to Exmouth (approximately 400km, originally 4 hours drive but 6 hours with detours)

We left Carnarvon at 9:00 and took back the long drive again today. Our destination was at the west side of exmouth instead of the town center. Sooner or later, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn and took a picture with this sign, then kept on our way to the tip of the North west cape of Australia.

Eventually termite mounds began to spot the landscape. There are many. We stopped for the obligatory snap shots for many times due to its convenient roadside location. We did not like those people painted a smiely faces or words onto the termite mounds though.

After further 3.5 hours or something drive, we finally were on the tip of the cape. It had taken us 18-20 hours of butt time to reach this point, some 1,300km north of Perth. We immediately visited the exmouth visitor center, although we were cranky and in need of food, we really wanted to make advance booking for Whale watching and cruise tour at Yardie Creek. We spent some time here for research and finally chose a tour that closed to our accommodation. The cruise, unfortunately, was not operated in coming next 2 days (not operated on Sunday and Monday). So we could only visit Yardie Creek by our feet.

We got back to car, passed the naval communication towers, made the stops at Vlamingh Head Lighthouse and had our alfresco lunch again in the picnic area here, together with some nice views overlooking the sea. Then we made a short detour to Jurabi Turtle Center. It was not turtle season, no need to return this area in dark unless it was April.

Finally we visited the Yardie Homestead Caravan Park. It felt good to get out of the car and check into our accommodation for the coming next 3 nights. Unfortunately, I was informed that our booked Whale watching tour was cancelled due to lack of participants. We immediately asked the hosts to book another one for us that must be confirmed with enough people. My spoken English must be very poor as the hosts of the park had some smirk during my check-in. After releasing the luggage, we drove to the mangroves bay, had a short walk onto a bird hide and enjoyed the sun set down below the sea level in just a few minutes. At dawn, we saw many Kangaroos and Echidnas. It was lovely to see them walked across the road. Echidna is one of two mammals in the world that lay eggs. We had seen it here and Tasmania, but too sad that not able to see the another one, Platypus. We drove carefully in a very slow speed, accompanied with a pink colored sky, on our way back to the caravan park.

Overnight: Yardie Homestead Caravan Park

Next up: Exmouth, Yaride Creek and Snorkelling at Turquoise Bay

Day 7: 26 Aug 2012, Cape Range National Park, Exmouth

We were up normally and bound for Cape Range National Park to Yardie Creek. First stop was the Milyering Visitor’s Center, some 30km from the Yaride Homestead. The information here is plenty and we spent quite of bit of time here. We sought for advice where should be the best place of snorkelling and was advised a pair of fins were highly recommended for each of us. So we rented 4 pairs with AUD$8 for 2 days, deposit at AUD$200 that was refundable.

After 45-60 minutes drive, we arrived at Yaride Creek, the end of the Yaride road. We took the easy nature trail and then the Yardie Creek Gorge Trail. The view over there was impressive and rugged. The multi-colored walls of rock surround the deep blue-green creek. It is the only creek in this area with permanent water filled. We saw the wild turtle, second on this trip, in this creek. We looked around to search for the rocky wallaby but in vain. Maybe the weather was too hot in the middle of the day or it was too shy to show its face to us. We walked back and had ourselves a picnic near the car park.

Next we stopped and had a glimpse at Sandy beach, then took to our target place, infamous Turquoise Bay, for snorkelling. The water was very cold although it was 2:30pm. I had enough warm up before starting the snorkelling. We finally spotted many colored fishes. They varied in sizes with very big and small sizes. However, the water was too cold, the children felt uncomfortable and the crowd lined in the beach started to leave. We decided to stop at around 5:00pm and went back to the park for the rest tonight.

When we were going to sleep at around 11:00pm, he heard a stepping sound very loudly outside our cabin. A Kangaroo jumped into our big verandah. It was higher than my wife. We stared at its red eyes (light reflection) for a while. After it left, we hurried up to get back our clothes outside.

Overnight: Yardie Homestead Caravan Park

Next up: Charles Knife Road and Whale Watching

Day 8: 27 Aug 2012, Whale Watching, Exmouth

We were up and out at 9:00, visited the Milyering Visitor’s Center again for returning the fins (and deposit), and found some termite mounds to take pictures. Since we would take the Whale watching sunset eco tour and departed in the town center, we made our way to explore the east side of Cape range National Park. So we decided to visit the Shothole Road and Charles Knife Road.

Unfortunately, the Shothole Road was closed. So we turned off and worked our way along the rim of the gorge of the Charles Knife Road. It was certainly pretty through here but the unsealed road was pretty harsh to our car. We kept on driving but finally decided our poor i30 had suffered enough. We were not up for that particular slog again, so we turned back.

Back on the highway, we stopped in the visitor center and had our lunch. Since we still had 2.5 more hours to gather at pier for the Whale watching tour, my wife advised to visit the Pebble Beach where was just 15km south of the town. Wow, it was a lovely beach that I wondered why not much people advised this place. It definitely desired a visit here because of those multi-colored pebbles. I also spotted a pair of little eagles soared above me. Lucky enough this time, I could change my super telephoto lens and took some photos of one of them, lovely.

Finally we gathered in a pier to make the Whale watching. A 2-hours sunset trip was not cheap, but was really worth! We saw many humpback whales. Many of them were swimming in pair, mother and cub. It is the right time in August to see them heading back to South Pole to feed their cubs. We were told before the tour that humpback whales were everywhere. Yes, it was! By all means I took many photos. We were also very well served with many snacks and prawn, really delicious. All of the participants enjoyed the tour.

The tour ended at 6:30. When we were ready to make our way back to the accommodation, it was already 7:15. We drove along the completely dark road and could not see anything far from 500m. My wife was very nervous as we kept seeing many kangaroos sitting in the roadside. It seemed that they were ready to jump out to join as one of those carcasses littered in the roadside. So I drove slowly up to 60-80km per hour only. Finally and luckily, we went back to the park without any instance and so could have a peaceful rest that night.

Overnight: Yardie Homestead Caravan Park

Next up: Back to Carnarvon and Blow Holes

Day 9: 28 Aug 2012, Exmouth to Carnarvon (approximately 334km, 3.3 hours drive)

We woke up at usual and started off our back way route to South. After having gassed up at Lighthouse Caravan Park, we said goodbye to the west northern cape town of Australia. 

We passed all the scenic views when we headed up north few days ago, such as hills filled with termite mounds, Tropic of Capricorn, 2 roadhouses, the desolate sort of but vaguely pretty landscape and the brilliant blue Western Australia sky. After almost 3 hour drive, we decided to make a 49 km detour (one way, 75 km north of Carnarvon) to the blowholes, stopping at Point Quobba for an alfresco lunch in the car. This 49km detour of my drive seemed to go on forever because all of us were tired and desperate for lunch.

Wow, this was a great place that worth every extra kilometer that we added to an already long drive trip. We forgot our hungry feeling but patiently waited for a big wave to see the blowholes in action. Although we were gotten wet with the sea water in the air, we enjoyed very much to see this marveling natural phenomenon. It is an awe inspiring sight. The powerful ocean swells force water through sea caves and up out of narrow holes in the rocks, jets of water erupt into the air, sometimes up to a height of 20 meters, creating a spectacular sight. Wonderful!

After having lunch in Point Quobba, a fish habitat protection area (just 1km away from blowhole), we walked down to the beach and would like to look for some fishes. However, the tide was high and the wave was strong. We could see nothing and decided to leave after a moment.

Back to the bitumen road back to Carnarvon, we stopped for the snap of the artificial salt lakes. Suddenly 2 ambulances hurried towards blowholes and soon were back to Carnarvon. There must be something happening over there. Soon we were arrived and checked into the Wintersun Caravan & Tourist Park. We then set off to visit the supermarket, gas up the car again, and make the rest for today.

Overnight: Wintersun Caravan & Tourist Park

Next up: Lean Tree & Dongara Port

Day 10: 29 Aug 2012, Carnarvon to Dongara Port (approximately 478km, 5.5-6 hours drive)

We were up and out the door at 9:00 again. Since it was Saturday, we visited the Grower’s market at Visitor Center. There were fresh fruits, vegetables and other groceries. Since we were not keen on this, we left after a moment.

We were back in the land of passing lanes. The further south we drove, the higher trees, flowers and prettier it became that we must miss to observe when heading north few days before. We saw few time some road trains carrying a cabin to the north. They might be some new houses or new holiday park to be built or renovated.

When we arrived Geraldton, we saw a newspaper reported that a shark had attacked the surfer in the sea near blowhole yesterday. That’s why we saw the ambulances on the blowhole road. We continued the scenic drive, sometime later we reached the photo point, take picture of the permanently bent lean tree. It must be mighty blowy through here. Finally we turned at Dongara-Port Denison, and found our last resting place of this trip, the Port Denison Holiday Units. We loved this accommodation, very pretty and comfortable. It was really a good last stop to end our trip in this 11-day ultimate long road trip in West Australia.

After getting settled, we drove to the Irwin River Estuary to take Irwin River Walk Trail. It was twilight, so we walked slowly, enjoyed the sea breeze and saw many shore birds flying around. Then it was back to our lovely holiday units to chill out and enjoy our surroundings. 

Overnight: Port Denison Holiday Units

Next up: Pinnacles Desert and Perth

Day 11-12: 30-31 Aug 2012, Dongara Port to Perth to HK (approximately 393km, 4.5 hours drive)

We woke refreshed, having slept in the most comfortable bed we had encountered in past 10 days. We enjoyed the leisurely cooked breakfast by my wife.

We finally tore ourselves away and drove out to Nambung National Park. After 1.5 to 2 hours later, we pulled into the infamous Pinnacles at around 11:00. The Pinnacles Desert consists of thousands of odd limestone formations that mysteriously rise from yellow sand. This is an incredible place. We followed the 4km driving loop and stopped for many times to take photos. Before entering the driving trail, we saw the blue-tongue lizard again, the 2^nd time. The freaky pillars attracted us very much. We seemed to arrive Mars without need of any spaceship.

Having a quick picnic lunch, we visited the Discovery Center to try understanding the formation of these mysteriously pillars. We spent quite a bit of time here and we thought we could have spent more. We were soon on the Brand Highway again, and headed back to Perth. On the way back, we stopped at a scenic photo point to have a close look of the blooming yellow flowers.

Finally, we were back to Perth. We visited the King Park as our last visiting point of this trip. Then we drove back to the internal airport after sunset, returned our car that were suffered much in these 11-day trip, and took the flight back to HK at 00:00.

At long last, after another 7.5 hours flight (Luckily, we had TV entertainment this time), we were home.

Overnight: Cathy Pacific